Polo Shirts – Guide to History, Buying, Styling, & More

A polo shirt is a short-sleeved, collared shirt featuring a buttoned placket, often made from knitted fabrics like pique or jersey. It bridges the gap between casual T-shirts and formal shirts, offering a smart, sporty look. Originally worn in sports like tennis and golf, polos are now popular for work uniforms and casual wear.

Polo shirts are typically made from a variety of fabrics, each offering different benefits depending on the intended use. The most common materials include cotton, known for its breathability and softness, and cotton piqué, a textured knit that adds durability and structure. Jersey cotton is also used for a smoother, T-shirt-like feel. For performance wear, polos may feature polyester or blended fabrics that offer moisture-wicking, stretch, and quick-drying properties—ideal for sports or active settings. Other options include linen, for warm-weather comfort, and silk or silk blends for a more luxurious finish. The choice of fabric impacts not just comfort, but also the shirt’s fit, drape, and printability.

The history of polo shirts dates back to the early 20th century when French tennis legend René Lacoste revolutionised traditional sportswear by designing a short-sleeved, soft-collared shirt made from breathable cotton piqué—an upgrade from the stiff, long-sleeved attire worn on tennis courts. Although the name “polo shirt” originates from the sport of polo, where British players initially wore buttoned-collar shirts to keep flaps from flying during play, Lacoste’s design gained widespread popularity for its comfort and practicality. By the 1930s, it was adopted across sports like golf and polo and later evolved into a stylish staple for casual and business-casual wear. 

The shirt’s timeless appeal was further elevated in the 1970s when Ralph Lauren introduced its own version under the brand name “Polo,” cementing its place in both athletic and everyday wardrobes.

Before buying a polo shirt, consider key factors that influence its comfort, durability, and overall look. Start with the fabric—opt for cotton or cotton piqué for everyday wear, or polyester blends for active use. Check the fit (classic, slim, or custom) to match your body type and style preference. Inspect construction details like taped shoulder seams, reinforced plackets, and neat stitching, which signal better quality. Look for collars that hold their shape, well-aligned hems, and proper sleeve length—ideally halfway between your shoulder and elbow. Lastly, factor in colour, branding, and budget, and remember that softness doesn’t always equal long-term quality—durability matters too.

Styling a polo shirt is all about balancing smart and casual elements. For a polished look, opt for a slim-fit polo, buttoned up and tucked into chinos or tailored trousers—ideal for business casual or semi-formal settings. Pair with loafers or clean sneakers and layer with a blazer for added refinement. For a laid-back vibe, go with a classic-fit polo, worn untucked with denim or shorts, and keep it casual with canvas shoes or trainers. Stick to neutral or solid colours for versatility, or try subtle patterns or pastels for a more relaxed, warm-weather style. Avoid layering polos and oversized logos—clean, fitted, and simple is best.

The Origin of the Polo Shirt – From Sport to Style Icon

The polo shirt may be a wardrobe staple today, but its roots trace back to competitive sport, colonial influence, and clever design innovation. What started as functional sportswear has evolved into a global symbol of casual elegance, professionalism, and personal branding.

From the Polo Field to the Western World

The earliest version of the polo shirt was inspired by the game of polo, a horseback sport played for centuries in Persia and India. In the 19th century, British soldiers stationed in Manipur, India, were introduced to both the game and the players’ traditional uniforms—typically long-sleeved cotton shirts with broad collars. To improve practicality, players began fastening the collars with buttons to stop them from flapping during matches, a subtle change that would influence modern shirt design for decades.

How Polo Shirts Entered Everyday Fashion

During a visit to England in 1896, John E. Brooks of the American clothing brand Brooks Brothers saw polo players wearing shirts with button-down collars. He brought the idea back to the U.S. and applied it to dress shirts—creating the iconic button-down collar that still features in formalwear today. Though not a polo shirt by today’s standards, this laid the foundation for the fusion of sport and smart-casual style.

Lewis Lacey and the First “Modern” Polo Shirt

In the early 20th century, Lewis Lacey, a Canadian polo player and designer in Buenos Aires, launched a shirt made from lighter cotton with a small embroidered polo player—arguably the first instance of the sport-inspired shirt resembling the polos we know today. His version made polo shirts more wearable, casual, and logo-forward.

René Lacoste Revolutionises the Polo Shirt

The true breakthrough came in the 1920s, when French tennis star René Lacoste decided traditional tennis attire—long-sleeved, stiff, and buttoned up—wasn’t cutting it. He designed a short-sleeved, pull-over shirt made from cotton piqué, a breathable knit that was soft, stretchy, and comfortable. He added a longer back hem (known as a “tennis tail”) to keep the shirt tucked in during play and proudly wore it at the 1926 U.S. Open. The sporting world—and eventually, the fashion world—took notice.

Lacoste’s nickname, “The Crocodile,” inspired the now-famous logo he stitched on the chest of his shirts. And despite being a tennis player, Lacoste labelled the shirt a “polo”—likely to widen its sporting appeal.

A Crossover Hit – From Tennis to Golf to Business Casual

While Lacoste’s shirt dominated tennis courts, it didn’t take long for polo players to adopt it too, replacing their heavier cotton button-ups with this cooler, more flexible option. By the mid-20th century, golfers, too, embraced the polo—President Dwight Eisenhower famously wore golf polo while golfing, helping the shirt gain popularity in American country clubs and beyond.

The polo shirt’s smart yet relaxed appearance made it an obvious candidate for business casual wardrobes, particularly in the growing tech industry and modern offices where formality was fading.

Fred Perry and the Rise of Logo Identity

British tennis champ Fred Perry followed in Lacoste’s footsteps, launching his own line of polo shirts in the 1950s. His version included a stitched laurel wreath logo and appealed strongly to youth culture and subcultures across the UK. The Fred Perry polo, slimmer and more fitted than Lacoste’s, became a favourite in mod fashion and later punk and ska scenes—showing how the polo shirt could shift from country clubs to counterculture.

Ralph Lauren and the Lifestyle Movement

In 1972, Ralph Lauren gave the polo shirt a whole new spin—fusing the sport’s elite roots with high-end lifestyle branding. He launched the now-iconic Ralph Lauren Polo Shirt, featuring a mounted polo player logo, as part of his casualwear line. With luxury appeal, vivid colours, and wide accessibility, Lauren helped turn the polo into a global fashion statement. His brand solidified the shirt’s association with preppy, aspirational living.

The Polo Shirt Today

From sports fields to golf courses, offices to streetwear, the polo shirt has proven itself a true chameleon. It’s worn tucked or untucked, buttoned up or open-collared, layered under blazers or paired with denim. Businesses love them for staff uniforms and branding, thanks to their comfortable fit, logo-ready design, and polished appearance.

In modern custom apparel, polo shirts are widely chosen for embroidery, especially on the chest or sleeves. Cotton piqué remains a favourite for its durability and breathability, though newer fabrics like performance polyester have expanded its use in activewear.

What to Look for Before Buying a Polo Shirt?

When buying or customising a polo shirt, understanding what defines quality is key—especially if you’re investing in uniforms, brand merch, or elevated everyday wear. From the material and collar to the placket and buttons, subtle differences in construction can make a big impact on comfort, style, and durability. Here’s what to look for in a high-quality polo shirt:

1. Fabric Types – What Is the Polo Made From?

The fabric you choose affects not only the comfort but also the printability, durability, and price point. Here are the most common materials:

• Cotton: A classic for a reason—soft, breathable, and natural. Look for long-staple cotton like Pima or Egyptian for a smoother, more durable feel. Short-staple cotton is more prone to pilling and fading.
• Silk or Silk Blends: Luxurious and lightweight, silk polos are elegant but delicate. They fade with heat and moisture, so cotton-silk or linen-silk blends are often more practical.
• Linen: Breathable and textured, linen gives a more relaxed, casual appearance. Pure linen can feel coarse, so linen-cotton blends strike a better balance of comfort and style.
• Performance Blends: Ideal for sport or activewear. These often include features like UV protection, stretch, or odour resistance. Best reserved for workouts, not formal wear.
• Synthetics: Polyester is wrinkle-resistant and durable, but often lacks breathability and can feel cheap. It’s practical for uniforms but not always desirable for comfort or aesthetics.

Blended Fabrics:

Common in budget polos, cotton-poly blends improve durability and reduce cost. While functional, they may feel stiffer or less breathable than 100% cotton.

Choosing the Right Polo Shirt Fabric for Your Body Type

When it comes to polos, fabric choice isn’t just about comfort—it’s about fit, drape, and how well the shirt flatters your physique. The material you choose can either enhance your silhouette or highlight areas you’d rather downplay. Here’s how to pick the right one based on your body type:

• For Slim or Average Builds: If you’ve got a lean or average frame, lightweight fabrics like cotton jersey, silk blends, or fine cotton-poly mixes are your best bet. These fabrics offer a sleek, modern fit that naturally drapes well over the body without adding bulk. Just steer clear of heavyweight piqué—its structure can actually make you look slimmer than you are, which may throw off your proportions.
• For Larger or “Dad Bod” Frames: If you carry more weight around the midsection, piqué cotton is your go-to. The textured weave provides structure, which skims rather than clings to the body. It subtly smooths over less flattering areas—especially around the chest and stomach—offering a clean, balanced look. Avoid lightweight knits and stretch blends, as they tend to hug the body and can highlight problem areas rather than conceal them.

2. What is the Knit Type – Piqué or Jersey?

Most polo shirts are knit, not woven, and the knit style has a big effect on texture, breathability, and look.

• Piqué Knit: Known for its raised, waffle-like texture, piqué is breathable, slightly structured, and holds shape well. It’s the classic choice for traditional polo shirts.
• Jersey Knit: Smoother and more flexible, jersey polos feel similar to a T-shirt. They’re lighter and have a sleeker drape, but can be less breathable and wrinkle more easily.

3. What is the Sleeve Length and Construction?

• Short Sleeves are standard, offering a clean, modern look for most uses.
• Long Sleeves are less common but ideal for transitional seasons or a dressier vibe.

Sleeve Types:

• Set-In Sleeves: Sewn directly into the shoulder, offering a traditional tailored look.
• Raglan Sleeves: Extend to the collar, creating a wider range of motion—ideal for sport or comfort-focused designs.

Cuff Styles:

• Hemmed Cuffs: Simple and loose-fitting, comfortable for casual wear.
• Ribbed or Rouched Cuffs: Tighter and neater around the arm, giving a more structured, athletic appearance.

4. What is the Collar Construction – Soft or Structured?

Polo collars come in different styles:

• Ribbed Collars are the norm but may curl over time.
• Interlined Collars are reinforced like a dress shirt, providing a sharper appearance and better durability.

If possible, avoid flimsy collars, especially for uniforms or work polos, as they lose shape easily.

5. Placket Style: Basic, Set-In, or Set-On

The placket is the panel that houses the buttons below the collar. It significantly affects the polo’s look and formality. Higher-end polos may also feature hidden plackets for a clean, minimal look.

• Basic Placket: Made from the body of the shirt—cost-effective but less refined.
• Set-In Placket: More structure and stitching, offering a neater finish.
• Set-On Placket: The most tailored and premium option, sewn separately and reinforced for durability.

6. What is the Button Quality and Arrangement?

Most polos have 2 or 3 buttons, but the materials vary. Well-made buttonholes should be neatly stitched with no loose threads—a key sign of attention to detail.

• Plastic: Common and inexpensive.
• Imitation Horn or Shell: Aesthetic upgrade without the price tag.
• Mother-of-Pearl: A hallmark of premium polos, offering natural shine and long-lasting quality.

7. Are there Pockets – Yes or No?

While some polos include a chest pocket, they’re often unnecessary and may distort over time. Unless functional, skip the pocket for a cleaner silhouette.

How to Style a Polo Shirt? – Fit, Fashion & Do’s and Don’ts

The polo shirt is a timeless wardrobe staple that effortlessly blends comfort with a smart-casual edge. Whether you’re dressing for work, weekend outings, or branded uniforms, how you wear your polo shirt can make all the difference. Here’s a complete guide on styling polo shirts—covering fit, colour, patterns, and a few etiquette rules worth noting.

1. Focus on the Fit First

A well-fitting polo makes all the difference. It should sit neatly on the shoulders, skim the torso without clinging, and hint at structure—ideally creating a clean V shape without being skin-tight. Avoid super-slim cuts unless you’re in athletic shape. A classic or custom fit offers a more flattering and versatile silhouette for most body types.

Understanding Polo Fit Profiles

• Classic Fit: Relaxed through the body, with longer sleeves and hems—great for tucking in and casual elegance. Ideal for fuller figures or all-day comfort.
• Slim Fit: Tapered through the waist and sleeves for a modern, close-to-body look. Best worn untucked.
• Custom Fit: A hybrid between classic and slim. Trim but not tight, shorter hem, and versatile enough to wear tucked or untucked.

2. Sleeve Length & Fit: Keep It Clean

The sleeve should hit halfway between your shoulder and elbow, sitting snug but not tight. Use the “finger test”—if you can slide one finger between your sleeve and bicep without too much slack, you’ve nailed the fit. Too loose looks sloppy, too tight looks restrictive.

3. Get the Hem Right

The hem length can make or break your look. If your polo has a longer back hem (Tennis Tail), it’s meant to be tucked in. For polos with an even hem, the bottom should fall just below your belt line if worn untucked. If it extends halfway down your backside, it’s too long and will throw off your proportions.

4. Choosing Colours That Work

Stick to neutrals like navy, white, grey, olive, and black for everyday wear—they pair effortlessly with jeans, chinos, and shorts. For summer or casual Fridays, don’t shy away from pastels or bold colours like coral, sky blue, or soft yellow. The polo is meant to feel relaxed—so have fun with it.

5. Patterns – Keep It Smart

From solids and stripes to checks and micro-prints, polos come in a wide range of patterns. Stick with classic styles for a timeless look or branch out into modern textures for more flair. Avoid overly graphic or loud prints unless you’re making a specific fashion statement.

7. Polo Shirt Etiquette: Do’s and Don’ts

Here are some unwritten rules every polo wearer should follow:

Do’s

• Do tuck in polos when dressing up with tailored pants or business-casual outfits.
• Do match your polo with appropriate bottoms—chinos, trousers, or fitted shorts.
• Do wear polos that fit—not baggy or skin-tight.
• Do experiment with fun colours and seasonal patterns.

Don’ts

• Don’t wear oversized logos—they distract from the clean look. Subtle, tone-on-tone branding is more refined.
• Don’t pop your collar. It’s outdated and unnecessary.
• Don’t wear polos that are too long or untailored.
• Don’t pair polos with blazers. The collar often collapses and looks untidy—stick to dress shirts for structured jackets.
• Don’t layer polo shirts. One at a time is enough.

What are the types of polo shirts?

Polo shirts come in several types based on fit, fabric, and design. Common styles include classic fit, offering a relaxed cut for comfort; slim fit, which provides a more tailored, close-to-body shape; and custom or modern fit, which sits between the two. In terms of fabric, polos are typically made from piqué knit (textured and breathable) or jersey knit (smooth and lightweight). You’ll also find performance polos made with moisture-wicking materials for sport, dress polos with structured collars for smart-casual wear, and long-sleeve polos ideal for cooler weather or layering. Each type serves a different purpose depending on the setting, climate, or body type.

What is the difference between classic and slim polo shirts?

Classic polo shirts have a relaxed fit with a looser cut through the chest, sleeves, and waist—ideal for comfort and easy layering. Slim polo shirts are more tailored, featuring a narrower fit through the torso and sleeves, creating a sharper, body-contouring silhouette best suited for lean or athletic builds.

Are polo shirts formal or casual?

Polo shirts are primarily considered smart casual, but they’re incredibly versatile. Styled the right way, they can lean formal or relaxed depending on the occasion. A slim-fit polo, buttoned up and tucked into trousers with a blazer, creates a polished, semi-formal look suitable for business casual settings. On the other hand, a classic-fit polo worn untucked with jeans or chinos offers a comfortable, laid-back outfit perfect for weekends or casual outings.

Is Polyester a Good Choice for Polos?

Yes, polyester is a solid choice—especially for activewear and performance polos. It’s lightweight, durable, and designed to wick moisture away from the body, helping sweat evaporate faster to keep you cool and dry. Polyester also offers wind resistance, dries quickly, and often has antibacterial or odour-resistant finishes, making it ideal for sports or outdoor work. While it may lack the natural breathability of cotton, its low-maintenance and high-performance qualities make it a reliable option for those who prioritise function over softness.

 Are polo shirts considered business casual?

Yes, polo shirts are generally considered business casual, especially in modern workplaces with relaxed dress codes. They strike a perfect balance between laid-back and polished, making them ideal for settings where a full dress shirt isn’t necessary. To keep the look professional, opt for solid colours or subtle patterns, and pair your polo with chinos or tailored trousers. A well-fitting polo with a structured collar looks sharp under a blazer or light jacket. Just avoid worn-out fabrics, oversized logos, or overly casual styling to maintain a clean, office-appropriate appearance.