Enjoy 5%
OFF 
|
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...
|
A shirt collar is the part of a shirt that surrounds the neckline and frames the face. It can be folded, buttoned, or stand up, depending on the style. Collars help define the shirt’s look, casual, formal or somewhere in between.
The main shirt collar styles are the point collar, spread collar, button-down collar, spearpoint collar, tab collar, pin collar, club collar, band collar, one-piece collar, pyjama collar, square collar, wing collar, semi-cutaway collar, and cutaway collar.
Custom Printed Tees and Shirts Australia
The primary collar styles for shirts are:
- Point collar: Point collar is a classic shirt collar style known for its narrow spread and sharp downward tips. Common in business shirts, it pairs well with four-in-hand knots and flatters broader face shapes. Collar stays help maintain a crisp, clean look.
- Spread collar: Spread collar is a versatile shirt collar design with a wider gap between the points. Ideal for most face shapes, it accommodates a variety of tie knots like the Windsor and Half-Windsor. Commonly found in dress and formal shirts.
- Button-down collar: Button-down collar is a traditional shirt collar type where the points are fastened with small buttons. Frequently used in Oxford shirts, it offers a relaxed yet structured appearance and works with or without a tie.
- Spearpoint collar: Spearpoint collar is a vintage-inspired shirt collar style featuring long, narrow points. It’s often associated with 1920s–30s fashion and pairs well with collar pins or clips for a refined, throwback look.
- Tab collar: Tab collar is a tailored collar style for shirts, designed with a small hidden tab under the tie knot that lifts and tightens the collar. It delivers a polished, traditional finish and is always worn with a tie.
- Pin collar: A Pin collar is a formal shirt collar option that includes eyelets for a decorative pin or bar. The pin elevates the tie knot and adds a sharp, structured touch, best suited for slim-spread dress shirts and tie-centric looks.
- Club collar: Club collar is a retro shirt collar variation with rounded points, also known as the penny collar. With roots in prep-school fashion, it adds charm to modern dress shirts and works well with accessories like collar pins or tabs.
- Band collar: Band collar is a minimalist shirt collar style with no traditional points, just a short, upright band. Once used to attach detachable collars, it now offers a clean, casual look in modern or rustic-style shirts.
- One-piece collar: One-piece collar is a distinctive dress shirt collar design made from the same fabric as the shirt front, creating a tall, continuous line. It naturally rolls and stands, making it suitable for both casual and formal looks.
- Pyjama collar: Pyjama collar, also referred to as a camp or Cuban shirt collar, lies flat with a notch-like opening. It’s commonly seen in short-sleeve casual shirts and is ideal for relaxed or tropical settings.
- Square collar: The Square collar is a rarely used shirt collar style with straight, squared-off tips and minimal spread. Typically found in vintage or detachable collars, it’s mostly reserved for costume or period-specific garments.
- Wing collar: Wing collar is a formal collar style for tuxedo shirts, featuring stand-up bands and wing-like tips. It’s traditionally worn with a bow tie and is a key element in white-tie attire.
- Semi-cutaway collar: Semi-cutaway collar is a modern shirt collar variation with a moderate spread that suits Windsor and Half-Windsor knots. It balances classic and contemporary looks, making it popular for versatile dress shirts.
- Cutaway collar: Cutaway collar is a bold, wide-spread shirt collar type with nearly horizontal points. Best paired with large knots like the Windsor, it’s a statement feature in high-formality dress shirts.
Point collar
The point collar is the go-to choice for most office and corporate settings. Its defining feature is the narrow spread between the collar tips, which point downward, framing the tie knot closely, especially when paired with a four-in-hand knot. This close-set design keeps the tie well-contained and look sharp.
Ideal for wider or rounder faces, the point collar helps elongate the neckline and create a slimming effect. It’s best worn with medium-stiff interfacing and works well when reinforced with collar stays for a clean, structured shape. Though it doesn’t always tuck under jacket lapels, it maintains a professional look when styled right. Keep in mind, a very stiff point collar may slightly lift away from the shirt when tied, leaving a small gap, so choosing the right stiffness matters.
Spread collar
The spread collar is one of the most versatile and universally flattering shirt collar styles. Its hallmark feature is the wider distance between collar points, which gives the neckline a more open appearance. This not only balances out most face shapes, especially narrower ones, but also creates room for various tie knots, from the bold Windsor to the smaller four-in-hand.
Ideal for everything from business meetings to weddings and casual Fridays, the spread collar lays flat under jacket lapels and complements a wide range of outfits. It’s a smart pick if you wear thicker ties like wool or cashmere, as it accommodates bulkier knots with ease. You’ll often see subtle variations in this style, such as semi-spread, Kent collar, or English spread, which all refer to similar designs with varying point widths.
Whether you’re dressing for the boardroom or a formal event, the spread collar gives you flexibility without compromising polish.
For formal events like weddings, galas, or black-tie dinners, the spread collar remains the preferred choice for tuxedo shirts. It frames a bow tie or slim knot cleanly and rests smoothly under the lapels of a dinner jacket, offering balance without distracting from the overall look.
While some fashion brands promote trendier collar styles for special occasions, these modern alternatives often don’t stand the test of time. Sticking with a classic English spread collar ensures your outfit stays elegant, refined, and appropriate for any formal setting, without ever feeling outdated.
Button-down collar:
The button-down collar blends relaxed charm with timeless style. Originally worn by English polo players and later popularised in America by Brooks Brothers, this collar features buttons at the tips that fasten it to the shirt. It’s a signature element of Ivy League, preppy, and traditional menswear, making it perfect for casual or smart-casual looks.
The collar is typically soft and allows for a natural roll, giving it a lived-in elegance, especially when worn without a tie. It pairs well with knit ties, flannel shirts, and sport coats, making it a wardrobe staple for everyday wear. For those who like a laid-back vibe, leaving one or both collar buttons undone can give a sense of effortless style, though it’s a matter of personal taste.
Prefer a cleaner finish? The hidden button-down version tucks the fastening underneath the collar for a sleeker silhouette, but it may cause some puckering at the collar tips. Whether you wear it open or dressed up, the button-down collar offers flexibility while maintaining shape and personality.
Cutaway collar:
The cutaway collar stands out for its bold, wide-open spread, much broader than a traditional spread collar. In extreme versions, the collar points angle so far back that they almost form a straight horizontal line across the neck. This dramatic shape creates a strong visual frame for the tie and shirt front.
It’s best paired with large tie knots like the Half Windsor or Full Windsor to fill the space cleanly and avoid exposing the tie’s body behind the knot. That’s why cutaway collars are sometimes called Windsor collars. Some style-conscious dressers might still opt for a four-in-hand knot to add a relaxed edge, but the wide space is designed for fuller, symmetrical knots.
Often seen in modern European tailoring and formal styling, the cutaway collar gives a confident, refined look that pairs well with structured suits and statement ties.
Spearpoint collar:
The spearpoint collar is a vintage-inspired style with long, downward-sloping points that extend well below the collarbone. Popular in the 1920s and 1930s, this collar became a hallmark of classic menswear and was often worn with collar pins or clips to keep the points in place and elevate the tie knot.
Its extra length creates a dramatic, old-school silhouette that pairs best with narrow tie knots and structured tailoring. This collar made a strong comeback through shows, where it was featured as part of period styling. Today, it’s favoured by those seeking a rakish, throwback look that adds character without straying too far from tradition.
Available in modern reproductions and vintage-inspired collections, the spearpoint collar is a distinctive alternative to the standard point, offering just enough flair for those who appreciate timeless style with edge.
Tab collar:
The tab collar is a classic choice with a vintage twist, designed to frame your tie knot with sharp precision. Its signature feature is a hidden tab that fastens beneath the tie, either with a button or snap, bringing the collar points closer together while pushing the knot slightly upward for a crisp, elevated look.
This collar always requires a tie and is not meant to be worn open. It works best with smaller knots like the four-in-hand, as bulkier options like the Half Windsor can strain the tab or appear forced. Popularised by Daniel Craig’s James Bond in Skyfall, the tab collar offers a clean, distinguished appearance for men who want their outfit to stand out quietly and with confidence.
Pin collar
The pin collar is all about precision and polish. It features a narrow spread designed to be worn with a collar pin, bar, or clip that holds the collar points close together while lifting the tie knot for a clean, structured appearance. Shirts made for this style have small eyelets on each collar leaf to secure the pin or bar in place.
You’ll find options like collar pins that resemble safety pins and collar bars with screw-on ends, both adding a refined, jewellery-like detail to your outfit. For those who want the look without the eyelets, collar clips can be used with point or club collars instead. This collar style pairs best with slim tie knots and works beautifully for formal, business, or vintage-inspired looks.
Like cufflinks for your neck, a pin collar with the right accessory adds an understated statement that elevates your overall appearance without being flashy.
Club collar:
The club collar is instantly recognisable for its rounded points, offering a softer, vintage look compared to sharp-edged styles. Originating from Eton College as a way for students to set themselves apart, this collar, also called the penny collar, quickly became a symbol of understated refinement.
With its narrow spread and smooth curves, the club collar adds a nostalgic charm to both formal and casual shirts. It can be worn on its own, with a tie, or even combined with a tab feature for a more structured neckline. Ideal for those who appreciate heritage styling, the club collar blends tradition with subtle flair, perfect for adding a quiet statement to your wardrobe.
Band collar
The band collar is a minimalist, stand-up collar with no flaps or fold-over points. Historically, it served as the base for detachable collars, allowing men to wear stiff, starched collars over a soft shirt using collar studs, a practical solution for laundering and maintenance in the early 20th century.
Today, the band collar (also called the grandad collar or Mandarin collar) is worn as a standalone detail for a clean, modern look. It typically stands 1–2 inches high and is meant to be worn without a tie. While casual and relaxed, it still brings a refined edge to contemporary or vintage-inspired outfits. For those who value simplicity and tradition, the band collar is a timeless alternative to classic shirt collars.
One-piece collar
The one-piece collar, also known as the Hollywood or Cooper collar, is crafted from a single continuous piece of fabric that extends from the shirt placket, rather than being stitched on separately. This construction gives it added structure and creates a tall, elegant collar with a sweeping roll that stands out, especially when worn open.
Famous for its effortless drape and prominent roll, the one-piece collar brings visual height and a unique profile to the shirt. It’s rarely seen in off-the-rack shirts due to the skill required to make it. Though it looks sharp both open or with a tie, the collar points may lift out from under a jacket when left unbuttoned. Still, for those who appreciate refined tailoring and subtle standout details, the one-piece collar is a true wardrobe gem.
Pyama collar
The pyjama collar, also known as the Cuban, camp, or bowling collar, is a laid-back style defined by its open, flat design and notch-like lapel. It’s typically seen on short-sleeve shirts for warm weather and is a hallmark of relaxed summer looks, like Hawaiian or Aloha shirts.
This collar is casual by nature and usually worn without a tie. While originally reserved for leisurewear, it’s now making its way onto long-sleeved shirts styled with tailoring for a bold, modern twist. The collar is cut in two layers, with one side often slightly longer than the other, creating an easy, open neckline that sits flat on the chest. Best suited for warm days and informal outfits, the pyjama collar brings an effortlessly cool feel to any casual wardrobe.
The Square Collar
There are also shirt collars that are quite small with a minimal spread, among them the square collar, so called because the collar points are squared off. These were worn, usually in detachable form, in the early twentieth century, but are quite hard to find today.
Wing collar
The wing collar is the most formal shirt collar style, reserved for white tie events and traditional evening wear. It’s small, stand-up tips fold outward like wings, framing a bow tie with sharp precision and old-world charm.
Typically worn with tuxedos or tailcoats, the wing collar delivers a polished, ceremonial look. Though rooted in formality, it’s occasionally embraced for vintage-inspired black tie outfits. Historically worn by valets and butlers in period dress, it remains a niche but powerful choice for those aiming for classic elegance with a formal edge.
Semi-cutaway collar
The semi-cutaway collar strikes a balance between traditional and bold, sitting somewhere between a standard spread and a full cutaway. Its collar points are angled outward more than a classic point collar, but not as dramatically as an extreme cutaway. This makes it a versatile option that works well for both formal and smart-casual settings.
It’s best paired with fuller tie knots like the Half Windsor or Full Windsor, as the wider space between the points gives these knots room to sit neatly without crowding the neckline. The semi-cutaway collar flatters most face shapes and offers a modern look without being too fashion-forward, making it a reliable choice for men who want a refined collar that doesn’t feel too traditional or too trendy.
Cutaway collar
The cutaway collar is known for its extra-wide spread, with collar points that angle sharply back, sometimes nearing a horizontal line across the collarbone. This bold styling opens up the front of the shirt, creating space for larger tie knots like the Half Windsor and Full Windsor, making it an ideal match for sharp, symmetrical knots that sit prominently.
Its clean, modern lines give it a smart and confident look, often favoured in European tailoring and formalwear. The cutaway collar can also be worn without a tie for a contemporary, tieless style, though it truly shines when framing a structured knot or even a bow tie for events where you want to look crisp and elevated.
What should you know before choosing a shirt collar?
Before going into collar styles of a shirt, it’s worth understanding the elements that make a shirt collar work or fall flat. A collar isn’t just decorative; it frames your face, supports your tie knot, and helps define the tone of your outfit. Fit, stiffness, height, and proportion all come into play when choosing a collar that looks good and feels right.
Getting the balance right depends on how formal you want to appear, what suits your facial structure, and what type of tailoring you prefer. Whether you’re reaching for a relaxed weekend shirt or dressing for a boardroom, these collar fundamentals will help you make smart style choices.
What are the parts of a shirt collar?
A shirt collar typically consists of three core parts: the collar band (which wraps around the neck), the collar points (the outward-facing ends), and the interlining (the inner material that gives the collar structure). While designs vary in length, shape, and spread, these elements stay consistent in their function.
Some collars are built soft for a more casual roll, while others are constructed with sharp angles and reinforced edges for a crisp, formal appearance. Understanding the basic anatomy helps when comparing collar styles across brands or ordering custom-made shirts.
What is collar stiffness, and why does it matter?
Back in the 1800s and early 1900s, shirt collars were often starched to the point of being rigid and detachable. This was partly out of necessity, as shirts were difficult to wash and stiff collars could be cleaned or replaced separately. Today, collar stiffness comes from the type and thickness of interlining sewn inside the collar fabric.
Soft collars, favoured in Italian tailoring and Neapolitan styling, are more popular now, especially for casual or warm-weather wear. They pair nicely with unstructured jackets or can be worn on their own for a relaxed look. On the other hand, if you’re dressing for the office or a formal event, a firmer collar gives a sharper, more professional edge. Most ready-to-wear shirts aim for a balanced level of stiffness that suits everyday business wear.
What is collar height, and how does it affect your look?
Collar height refers to how tall the collar stands on the neck. A higher collar is typically more formal, often used in structured Italian shirts or dressy business attire. It may require two collar buttons for extra support and make a strong visual statement, especially if you want to project confidence.
That said, high collars aren’t for everyone. They can feel restrictive and might look overly bold if you’re aiming for a relaxed, smart-casual vibe. Lower collars offer a softer feel and appearance. Finding a collar height that complements your build, neck length, and intended setting is key to wearing your shirt with ease and confidence.
How does your face shape affect which collar you should wear?
Choosing the right collar also comes down to face shape. If you have a round or wide face, opt for narrow-spread collars like the point collar. This helps elongate the face and brings visual balance. Wearing a wide-spread collar in this case may make your face appear even rounder.
Conversely, if you have a thin or long face, a wider spread collar like the cutaway or spread collar adds horizontal balance and makes the face appear more proportional. The idea is to offset your facial structure, not match it. A moderate-sized collar with a balanced spread generally suits most face shapes and is ideal for everyday use.
What is the difference between a point collar and a spread collar?
A point collar has a narrow gap between the collar points, typically angled downward. It frames the tie knot closely and suits men with broader or rounder faces, as it helps elongate the neckline. It’s considered the traditional choice in more conservative business environments.
In contrast, a spread collar features a wider gap between the points, allowing for larger tie knots like the Windsor or Half-Windsor. It suits most face shapes and has become the standard in modern European tailoring. The choice between the two often comes down to personal preference, tie knot size, and the formality of the occasion.
Can you wear a shirt collar without a tie?
Yes, many shirt collars can be worn without a tie, but some are better suited for this than others. Styles like the button-down collar, band collar, and camp collar are designed to look polished even when left open. These are ideal for casual or business-casual settings where a tie isn’t necessary.
More formal collars, such as tab or pin collars, are specifically designed to work with a necktie and can look incomplete or awkward without one. If you prefer a tieless look but still want structure, opt for collars with natural rolls or reinforced construction to help the shirt frame your face neatly.
What collar style works best with a blazer?
When wearing a blazer, spread collars and button-down collars are both solid choices. A spread collar lies neatly under the lapels and allows for various tie knots, offering a clean, professional look. It works especially well for formal events or meetings.
The button-down collar leans more casual but adds charm and structure when worn under soft tailoring or a more relaxed blazer. Just make sure the collar roll sits well with the jacket’s neckline. Avoid extreme cutaways or wing collars with blazers, as they are either too bold or too formal for typical jacket pairings.
Are shirt collars supposed to have stays?
Collar stays are small inserts used to keep collar points flat and sharp. They’re commonly found in point and spread collars and help maintain structure throughout the day. Most dress shirts come with removable plastic stays, while higher-end options may include metal stays for added weight and crispness.
Some collars are designed to roll naturally and don’t require stays at all; this is common in soft, unlined collars like button-downs. Others, like the one-piece or band collar, are constructed to hold shape without reinforcement. So, the need for collar stays depends entirely on the collar style and how you plan to wear it.
What’s the most formal collar type?
The wing collar is considered the most formal of all collar styles. Its standing points fold outward like small wings, designed specifically to frame a bow tie for white-tie occasions. It’s traditionally worn with tuxedos or tailcoats and is a key component of classic evening dress.
While still worn today for ultra-formal events, the wing collar has become less common outside traditional settings. For most black-tie occasions, a well-fitted spread collar is more versatile and modern, yet still formal enough to complement a tuxedo and bow tie ensemble.
